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Look After Your Equipment

When it comes to items around the house (equipment, appliances, tools etc) each of us have a different way of looking after them. Some of us leave them where they were last used, even outside in all weathers. And then are bitterly dissatisfied when they refuse to function when needed. Others put everything back in its storage place when not needed, knowing where to find it and that it will operate perfectly when needed. And of course, many slip between the 2 extremes.

So where do you fit on this spectrum?

If you are in the neat and tidy end, great as you will know how to look after and manage the pool equipment also. Pool equipment is largely outside so it exposed to a lot in its life. A few items can be stored inside. However, if you can provide shelter and protection for all, it will respond in kind by working longer, needing little or no maintenance. And you will save money in the process. So, a little care and attention goes along way.

If you are more of well its designed for use outside and so I expect it to stay there in all weathers, you will find more expense due to faster degradation, loss of performance and even replacement sooner than you expected.

So, the choice is very much yours. If you seek to have the best value in pool equipment then develop a plan, stick with it to protect, store and look after the equipment. From leaf rakes to pumps and everything else. Buying a new leaf rake yearly as it gets stepped on seems not too much but over a decade it adds up. Some prevention can save you plenty.

If you can create pool shed for all items pool related, then just keep it for pool items. Junk has no place there. And pool pumps etc need room to breathe as they get hot.  Good access to filter equipment is needed. You don’t want to have it buried under other stuff.

Look after your pool equipment and it will look after your pool much better.

If you have ever worked in the swimming pool industry you would see a stark contrast between how different people care for their pools and associated pool equipment, chemicals, and maintenance items. One pool owner leaves every last pool toy, pool chemical and pool maintenance item laying on the ground in the last place it was used, while other pool owners have a neatly organized pool shed with each component for the pool labeled and stored away in a specific home. Year after year it is interesting to see how the pool and pool equipment ages in these different environments. Unsurprisingly the people who care for their equipment experience much greater longevity from each component.

Pool owners do not get the benefit of seeing this progress happen first hand. It stands to reason, logically, that the better you care for your things the longer they will last you, but it is less apparent when you only ever see your own pool. If you stand back and look at the long term equation of pool ownership objectively, getting the longest service life out if every last thing you buy is critically important to the bottom line numbers. If you need to buy a new leaf rake or telescoping pole every year because you keep stepping on yours and breaking it…your pool will end up costing you more than it should. Worst of all this is something that is completely within your control.

The solution here is to develop a plan for success. You need to have a place to store your pool chemicals that is NOT next to your pump and filter. You need hooks to hang up your telescopic poles, as well as storage bins for your inflatables and pool toys. If you have a pool shed that is half filled with garbage then you should clean it out. Pool equipment needs a lot of room, and air, to breathe in order to remain cool when it runs. Also messy pump sheds will attract rodents and other pests that can move in and cause damage to your pool equipment, pool cover, or any other items left in storage for any period of time. Treat every component of your pool as though it is a small pile of money. Would you just take a pile of money and throw it blindly into the shed and close the door? Probably not…you would probably place it, with great care, in a safe place until you needed it again.

Look After Pool Water Chemistry

Pools are very simply, mild chemical baths. Most pools and spas use some form of chlorine for sanitation.

In order to not waste your money on unnecessary (and often dangerous chemicals), you should manage or have managed the pool water chemistry, well. An out of balance pool may not only be uncomfortable to swim in (it may be unhealthy even), but it can also result in the shortening of the life of the pool filtration system and pool surfaces themselves.

So close and well managed pool water chemistry will save you money both in the short and long term.

Chlorine is a strong oxidizing agent and is quite dangerous if mishandled. Hence for pool use its either sold in diluted liquid form (12.5%) tablets or generated via a saltwater chlorinator.

There is a lot of information written about pool water chemistry. Much of it by commercial enterprises who are keen to sell you something. There is little unbiased information available for the home pool user.

Pool water can be a very complex mixture of metals, nonmetals, salts, oxides, chemicals, oils and phosphates etc. 

ALSO, the water you put into your pool (well or town supply) may also contain many salts & metals in small and varying concentrations.  These can vary daily (and within your street) and impact quickly on the pool water chemistry and how you need to deal with it.

The most important aspects to monitor are: pH, Water Balance, Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) and Chlorine (Bacteria) ,

In one sense having a low maintenance pool is the most delightful experience and some owners achieve this year in year out. Others struggle to get theirs to run well. Why?

The best place to get good advice is your pool shop, however not all are run by knowledgeable persons who can discuss your pool issues and take the time to work out what’s going on. Many shops run a simple computer test for pH, Chlorine, TA (Total Alkalinity) and CH (Calcium Hardness) and sell you some chemicals to add to your pool, in the expectation all will be well. Yet a few weeks later you are back seeking a solution to an issue. Why? Could the TDS or LSI be getting too high, causing additional problems?

Saltwater Pools

These are now quite common but are not “NO” maintenance. They do require care and attention.

Firstly, in an average size pool some 800lbs of pool grade salt is used. And it’s topped up from time to time. If salt is from sea water, so it has the same composition as sea water, including sodium chloride (Nacl) along with other minerals like Calcium, Magnesium, and salts of these, plus biological items. There are many trace minerals and some metals too, along with fine sand. Not all are soluble and can drop out as fine white powder over time when the water temperature changes.  Filtration systems cannot remove all. There is also salt from mechanical evaporation with different composition and potential issues. Lastly mined salt is considered the purest.

Also, the Chlorinator itself may assist in creating insoluble materials such as calcium and alkali precipitate and resultant scale in the pool itself.

Chlorine pools:

In pools with liquid or granular chlorine, Sodium Hypochlorite is the most common sanitizer used. Calcium Hypochlorite (increases Calcium load) and Lithium Hypochlorite (higher cost, lower effectiveness) less so.

However even Sodium Hypochlorite leaves a residue that’s about 85% salt, NaCl.  This is reactive and may combine with other minerals and salts in the pool (water supply, rainwater flowing across cement) to form insoluble salts too, much like those seen in Saltwater pools.

Fibreglass, Vinyl, Painted Pools:

Pools with non-mineral surfaces can suffer from a low Calcium level. If there is no Calcium in the pool lining, (non-mineral) then with rainwater entering pool, (that’s calcium free) plus any limited Calcium in the pool is being filtered out, a deficiency exists. This upsets the water balance, leading to a loss of “buoyancy” to hold dissolved solids in suspension. Within a matter of minutes, the dissolved solids drop out as a white film over the pool surfaces.

What to do if your pool shows these signs?
Discuss with your pool shop. We can also provide more information on the white film and how to get rid of it.

Usually, a flocculating agent will do the job.

Note there are two Types: Aluminium Sulphate and Synthetic Polymer and either one may work. You may need to try both. If not successful then it may be that TDS is too high and the pool needs to be partially emptied to remove water and some of the TDS and replaced with clean, water. Only further testing will confirm this last approach as being needed.

In a nutshell there are remedies to overcome these issues and, in some cases, they are straight forward. In others more detective work and some trial and error is needed to get you pool back to being in tip top condition. Do not let you pool just sit and get worse as the longer it is left the more difficult it can be to fix.

The BEST Measure of Pool Water Balance and being correct is the Langelier Saturation Index, (LSI).

 It should always be in the range of +0.3 to – 0.3. This means the water is balanced. 

If higher than + 0.3 the pool is in the scale forming mode, so it deposits minerals on the surfaces, pipes etc. You may well start seeing a white dusty film forming on the pool surface below the water line (and a hard scale above the water line). This can be very abrasive and “sand” the coating off, blue hands feet etc.

 If the LSI is less than -0.3, then the pool water is corrosive.  This means the pool water will be dissolving any mineral surfaces or eating away at any metal fittings connected to your pool, steps, pumps valves etc.

As Stabilizer Increases	LSI Decreases
As Total Dissolved Solids Increase	LSI Decreases
As Temperature Increases	LSI Increases
As Total Alkalinity Increases	LSI Increases
As pH Increases	LSI Increases
As Calcium Hardness Increases	LSI Increases

The LSI is a VERY useful and easy way to see if your pool water is in balance or not.

Your pool shop can calculate this from the pool water tests they do. Ask them to show you and discuss.

For maximum life of the pool finish and equipment, the pool water quality should be maintained continuously in accord with accepted pool water management practices and the following criteria;

The recommended ranges for each variable are.

pH	7.2 – 7.6	Temp	40 – 95 F
Total Alkalinity (TA)	80 (min)–180(max)  ppm	Chlorine Levels	1 – 3 ppm
Calcium Hardness (CA)	250–350ppm	Watch CA carefully

• Pool regularly cleaned, brushed (at least each 2 weeks in summer and monthly in winter).
• Check water balance at least twice weekly in summer and monthly in winter.
• Pool chemicals to be correctly mixed and not dumped into pool,
• Pool remains full of water (unless winterized)
• If using a Cu/Ag system monitor and keep ion concentration low to prevent staining.

If having your pool professionally maintained, then make sure they set the testing equipment to the correct surface type of your pool. Otherwise, incorrect chemical dosage may result, shortening the life of the current surface.

Also, Total Alkalinity should be carefully maintained to prevent a powdery surface developing with attendant “pick up” on hands and feet and a shorter life.

Have the right pool environment

You have your pool or you’re a planning one, either way you want to make sure it’s situated in the best environment.

What does this mean?

All things being equal your pool should be situated as follows:

• In an open space where it gets most sun, to heat it naturally
• The pool pointing south or west is best.
• Away from any and all trees (loss of sunlight and debris and leaves)
• In stable ground location, no elevated areas that can create slips or substantial run off (into your pool)
• Easy to access and walk around and good access to pump and filtration system, ideally under cover.
  

Getting a new pool, there will be constraints and guidelines as to where to pool can be located. This will be largely the result of boundaries, slope and condition of the site and city regulations amongst many.

You may need to look outside the box, to make the best of some conflicting issues. Maybe a smaller size or a different shape will allow you to get better results.

How about your existing pool then?

Its not something you can move so can you improve its environment even so?

• Remove any trees, more so if they are or soon will impinge on the pool with shadow or leaf debris.
• Improve the surroundings if access is difficult, create greater and open surroundings, such as a patio.
• Make sure no rain run off enters the pool, from adjoining garden or hillsides.
• Is the pool equipment in a protected, covered location.

It’s the perfect material for swimming pools

Fiberglass resurfacing is an evolving technology that has been used in the swimming pool industry for over 50 years.

When you think about it fiberglass is the material of choice for water related industries. Sailboats, surfboards, jet skis, are made with fiberglass. Water parks use the material because it’s very skin friendly. Fiberglass gel coat is non-porous and smooth, dirt and algae blooms are less likely to find a foothold. Composite materials require less maintenance and last longer over sustained use.

The benefits of composite materials can be seen in other industries such as medical, energy and construction. Fiberglass has a superior strength-to-weight ratio as compared to other materials, such as concrete and metals. It also has the least expansion and contraction with heat, cold and/or stress plus, in pool applications it acts as an insulator keeping the water about 10 degrees warmer.

Fiberglass is an environmentally-friendly material that’s made of naturally occurring elements that are heated, melted and reshaped into threadlike material(fiberglass) that is now a very durable strong product when used with composite materials that bind everything together to make finished products that last. The main ingredient in fiberglass varies from silica to carbon graphite. Since the silica is ─ an abundant, natural, non-depleting resource ─ fiberglass used in support of swimming pool surfacing is a highly-sustainable solution. And unlike plaster, it doesn’t dissolve in the water, like the limestone in pool plaster which then requires the pool owner a regular replacement of the plaster every 5 to 7 years.

Fiberglass vs Concrete Pools

POSTED ON MARCH 24, 2014 BY BRANDON LEIBOWITZ

Is there an unbiased comparison of in-ground fiberglass and concrete pool resurfacing services on the internet? Finding information out there can be a daunting task. Here’s a down and dirty explanation of each service in detail. Once you’ve decided on your resurfacing option, the next step is to find the best contractor to do the work.

Fiberglass Pools: Pros and Cons

Advantages:

Low maintenance: The gel coat surface of the fiberglass pool shell is nonporous.  This inhibits the growth of algae and reduces the amount of sanitizing chemicals required to maintain the pool.

Little or No lifetime cost: 99% of the time there is never any money invested in the shell of fiberglass pools.  No vinyl liner to replace and no resurfacing.

Non-abrasive surface: The gel coat surface of fiberglass pools is smooth to the touch.

Quick Installation: Because the shell of the pool already exits, fiberglass resurfacing is easier and the installation occurs more rapidly (4-6 days)

Easy of start-up: Re-filling the pool is easier because it doesn’t require brushing and careful water chemistry to prevent staining of  the new surface once water is reintroduced

Retains heat: Composite plastic acts as a thermal barrier that raise the temperature of the water an average of 10 degrees (less heating costs)

Energy cost savings: Pool equipment runs for shorter periods of time because the surface doesn’t dissolve in water like plaster. Cloudy water requires longer filter and pump cycle time usually 8 hours for plaster compared to as little as 4 hours for fiberglass.

Disadvantages:

Repairs on some colored finishes do not match: Many fiberglass pool manufacturers use colored finishes that will allow the sun to oxidize the pigment colors and then new material will not match in the unlikely event that a repair is needed.

Concrete Pools: Pros and Cons

 Advantages:

No size limit:  Concrete pools can be any size, shape, or depth.

Flexible design features:  Vanishing edges, beach entries, tanning ledges, etc. are all just a sketch away from reality with concrete pools.

Works of art:  Concrete Pools can be integrated into the design of the landscape.

Disadvantages:

High lifetime cost:  Concrete pools will need to be renovated  every  5-7 years  involving resurfacing and re-tiling the pool

More chemical use:  Because the surface of concrete pools is very porous, more chemicals and filtration are required to prevent algae.  The alkaline pH of the pool shell also constantly raises the pH of the water, requiring the frequent adding of acid to counteract the effect.

 Maintenance:  Plaster on concrete pools need to be frequently brushed to remove algae from the pours of the plaster or aggregate surface

 Longer installation: Plaster on concrete can take up to 10 days to resurface and  brushed before chemicals can be introduced back into the water.

Higher energy costs: Longer hours of operation for pool equipment to remove cloudiness from water resulting from dissolving process of plaster in a pool

Rough Interior Surface: Rough interior surface harbors algae growth and can take a toll on tender feet.

It’s the perfect material for swimming pools

Lower Temperature, Lower Costs

You can expend the swimming season by the use of a pool heater, gas or electric. However, for every degree rise you dial up, the cost in energy will be significant. Swimming in a bath is an idea that is nice, but you can swim just as enjoyably in a cooler pool, and save money in the process. If you really want to save money, look to install a solar collector system as a stand alone or adjunct to your established pool heater. It can pre heat the water and save energy.

Of course, when the pool is not in use, turn it down and use a pool blanket – cover to retain the heat generated.

More info here;

https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/heat-pump-swimming-pool-heaters

Don’t Overclean Your Pool.

We all want to have a clean pool and so having an automatic pool cleaner is one good way you achieve this. However, like with any piece of equipment, it should be used effectively and efficiently. This means not over cleaning the pool, via leaving the auto pool cleaner on needlessly. Its waste of energy for very little benefit.

As with pool chemicals, getting the maximum benefit for the minimum cost, is desirable and so determining the optimum balance is needed. This can be done by careful observation and record keeping.

Thus, if you spend some time and effort, you can save money on these aspects also.

More info here:

https://cleanup.expert/top-rated-pool-cleaners/

Best Automatic Pool Cleaners & Robotic Pool Cleaners

Use An Energy Efficient Pump

A Better Pump Saves Money.

Traditional pool pumps are fixed speed and thus can be considered as wasting energy. This is due to the nature of filtration, which is a basic, low energy function.

An energy efficient pumps can yield significant energy savings, (upwards of 18% and as much as $300 per year) when they are optimized and sized correctly. A controller sets the best speed for the task at hand, there by matching pump speed to needs of the pump at that point.

If your existing pool filtration pump is in need of replacement, carefully look at getting an energy efficient pump replacement, which will save you significant energy costs. Though an energy efficient pump has a higher initial cost, it will usually pay back the value inside of a year or so.

More Info here:https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/installing-and-operating-efficient-swimming-pool-pump

Manage the time your pool filter runs to save money.

You need to run your pool filter to gain a hygienic pool and to maintain this, as required.

For some pool owners it let run near continuously and others on a few hours a day.

The real question what the correct time is so the pool water is filtered and clean say after a day’s heavy usage or after no usage for a few days.

It’s a fine balance and to do so, without wasting electricity.

With some observations you will see the time needed to run after different usage profiles.

Ideally you want to pinpoint the minimum time to run the pump to get the job done. After a day’s heavy usage, it may be necessary to run it longer, with a manual override.

Check with your electricity supplier to see if you can benefit from a lower overnight rate.

And consider a smart (variable) speed pump also, which gives added flexibility and can a lot of money on yearly basis.  You may even receive a energy rebate.

No Green Here?

The basics and more

If you want to do more than the basics of pool water management, (scooping and vacuuming) then you need to spend some time understanding pool water chemistry.

The greatest issue with pools (and spas) is inconsistent or simply no pool water maintenance. There is a learning curve for sure, however if you want to save money, then this is one area where a little time on your part will bring big savings.

If your pool water goes green, then its going to take time and money to bring it back to a healthy and swimmable state.  And a green pool is simply not swimmable but can be causing issues with the pump and filtration equipment as well. So, if this scares you, and you are tempted to engage a pool water technician, not all of them are as caring as you. Yes, they may come at $50+   per call (say $100 – 200 per month) plus chemicals and on a regular cycle, or as needed. But what happens if the pool goes green between visits. How will they attend then? So, it’s in your interest to know beforehand anyways. And even your regular pool technicians’ attention may not be fool proof as they are on a time limit per pool to get through the daily number. And if your pool goes “off” well of course they get to add chemicals at your cost.

Keeping it healthy every day does require a retune and consistency in maintaining the correct balance. Fortunately, there is plenty of information available to guide you and make sure you know what you are looking at and how to keep your pool healthy.

So, ether way its best you are familiar with pool water chemistry and understand what is going on with your pool, what chemicals are being added and why. As it is, pools are mild chemical baths and the fewer chemicals the better for your health, of course keeping pool water swimmable at the same time.

For many pools maintaining a healthy, well-balanced pool is not difficult and you will only ever need a few chemicals. Many of the chemicals you see in your pool shop are only there for when there is problem. By monitoring the key 4, Chlorine, pH, Calcium Hardness and Total Alkalinity, you will have covered most of the key factors. And this will prevent issues from arising. The complexity (or lack) of pool water chemistry management is related to a few key factors and these include:

• weather conditions (rain, drought, heat or cool).
• supply of pool water (town supply, bore – well, rain), the first 2 may contain a range of minerals and metals, that add issues.
• pool usage profile (none, little, weekly parties or irregular usage profiles)
•  actual surface of the pool, (Paint, Fiberglass, Marcite, Pebble Tec or the more modern plasters), the first 2 provide a non-reactive, hard, smooth surface meaning less chemical needs as the surface is inert. The remainder in the list above are softer, reactive surfaces, which need more chemicals and management, and surfaces are absorbent, (mold and algae growth).

As you can see there are a range of factors to consider and once you are knowledgeable about them and then you can look after your most times or at least know what the technician is doing and why (why the charges)

How to test

Chlorine, best to plan ahead so the level is never 0. Big weekend coming with kids etc, then be proactive a few days in advance and keep the chlorine level up 1 – 3 ppm and after the party add some more (night-time). After heavy rain, or several hot days also check and add etc chlorine even to the 3 – 5 ppm free chlorine level.  Letting it get to 1 ppm means you have no leeway, and it can soon be 0.

You can test the Chlorine level with Test Strips however you are much better to get a proper test kit such as Taylor K2005, (online or pool shop). This will allow you to test daily and get a good understanding of how your pool Chlorine level fluctuates, due to weather and bather activity.  Then you can be confident of your pool and its hygiene needs and be proactive, saving it going green.  This will save you a good amount of cash, for a few minutes work each day.

For the pH, Calcium Hardness and Total Alkalinity, see the separate “I’m A Pool Water Chemist Now”, Blog Page.

If you do want to take on the chemical maintenance in addition to the scooping and vacuuming maintenance then you will need to invest some time into learning about pool and spa water chemistry. Improper water chemistry is obviously a problem if your water turns green and you can’t go swimming…but it is also potentially much worse than this. Poorly maintained water can absolutely cause damage to pool surfaces and pool equipment so you definitely do not want to drop the ball being the person responsible for maintaining your water. If that sounds scary to you, and sounds like too much responsibility, just know that many “service companies” actually do very little to protect your pool from chemical damage. Certainly there are many good, and totally legitimate service and maintenance companies…but so you can also say that there are many bad ones. When you learn about water chemistry you will have control over the chemical levels in your water. I can assure you that nobody, not even good service companies, will care about your pool and your pool water as much as you will care about your own.

Staying with the above example of taking on your own chemical maintenance you need to be aware that many of the chemicals available for sale in a pool and spa store you actually do not need. Many of the chemicals for sale in pool and spa stores are something that you would add to your pool once a problem has developed. If you are proactive with caring for your pool then you can probably avoid using the vast majority of these chemicals completely.

One of the most important things that pool owners can do to reduce the water chemistry and maintenance costs is to plan ahead to avoid letting the chlorine in the pool drop to zero. If you have a pool party be sure to add extra chlorine at the end of the night. If it is going to rain, or has rained a lot recently, be sure to add some extra chlorine. If it is extra hot and sunny for extended periods…you guessed it – check on those chlorine levels and top them up to the 3 to 5 ppm range. If you run at 1 ppm of free chlorine regularly this leaves you essentially no room to have the chlorine levels fluctuate before you are at zero…which you need to never do. Minimal chlorine exposure is good but not if it means that your water is constantly a problem for you to maintain.

Test strips are cheap and work reasonably well for testing sanitizer levels (although every pool owner should have the Taylor K-2006 test kit). This means that you can easily afford to test your chlorine levels every day. This will enable you to understand the range at which your pool tends to operate, as well as how much of a difference heavy bather loads or rain makes to your chlorine consumption rate. Knowledge is power when it comes to your pool water chemistry and the more you endeavor to learn and know about it, the more you will be able to effectively control your day to day chemical maintenance costs. Keep your chlorine levels a little higher than the minimum safe level of 1 ppm, closer to the 3 to 5 ppm range, and this will reduce on the amount of green water situations you encounter throughout the year.

Concrete OR Fiberglass pools The REAL Truth

We are not pushing any construction style of pool (As we don’t sell them) but we see many, many pools over the years and note there are important features of both. Most of the pools we see have an issue and its usually to do with the original installed surface. So, if you want an unbiased opinion, read on. It could save you a lot of money and increase your pool enjoyment beyond belief.

The first notable difference is the type or surface.

Fiberglass (and for that matter epoxy painted and vinyl liner pools) have an unreactive surface. Meaning they really do not react with the pool water or the chemicals with in.

On the other hand, plaster type surfaces, (anyone of them that’s has cement as part of its composition) is reactive. This indicates that the chemicals, react with the cement, and so becomes an issue to manage throughout the life of the pool.

So, what can you expect during the life of your pool?

Those non-reactive surfaces: Fibreglass, paint, tiles do not react during the life of the pool. So, they tend to remain less effected, and algae growth is limited to not at all. Fiberglass is generally a great surface, though slowly chalks, but is long lasting, non the less. Sure, some paints will chalk due to UV light effects and slowly wear away, like epoxies. And Acrylic paints will have a shorter life, overall. Fluoropolymer coatings are non-reactive and not effected by UV light, so will be longest lasting. Tiles withstand pool conditions very well, but the grout much less so and will allow algae to take root.

Those reactive surfaces: Plaster surface like Pebble Tec, Marcite and Quartzon varieties with cement binder, do slowly erode. The cement matrix is eaten away, and the surface becomes rougher and provides micro crevices that allow algae to take root. So over time maintenance costs increase, to keep the surface clean, deal with stains and then resurface as the surface become too rough, for comfortable bathing.

Structural integrity: It is well known that a properly engineered, and installed concrete pool has a great deal of resistance to ground movement, high water table and similar concerns. The important points being installed as designed, with no contractor short cuts. Also, flexibility in design allows a personalized approach. Then comes the finish that will offer the best looking and least costly (install and over the lifetime) surface.

Fiberglass pools’ structural integrity is much less than for concrete, so in high water table or unstable soils, they are not generally recommended. But careful installation is needed to ensure long term pool stability, in the right situations. They come in many shapes and sizes though the are limited by transport issues and ability to be placed correctly. Also, the quality of the construction is important to ensure durability.

Structural integrity: It is well known that a properly engineered, and installed concrete pool has a great deal of resistance to ground movement, high water table and similar concerns. The important points being installed as designed, with no contractor short cuts. Also, flexibility in design allows a personalized approach. Then comes the finish that will offer the best looking and least costly (install and over the lifetime) surface. Fiberglass pools’ structural integrity is much less than for concrete, so in high water table or unstable soils, they are not generally recommended. But careful installation is needed to ensure long term pool stability, in the right situations. They come in many shapes and sizes though the are limited by transport issues and ability to be placed correctly. Also, the quality of the construction is important to ensure durability.

Summary: If you are about to embark on a new pool look at the conditions in you location to select which type is best from a structural point of view. And of course, consider the usage now and into the future along with aesthetics.  Then look at the surface type that will give you the least maintenance issues, throughout the pools life and maximise the swimmability of it. A non-reactive surface will do this, and fluoropolymer coating offers this prospect, if having a concrete pool. For less demanding site situations a fibreglass or liner pools offer great advantages economically in the short and long term.

For existing pools be they concrete or fiberglass, then at the time of resurfacing – upgrading, look get or maintain a non-reactive surface. A fluoropolymer coating offers this prospect for both surfaces, but not liner pools.