Maintenance – PaintnForget

Meet Michael, Hes Got a (pool) Problem

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Meet Michael, Hes’ Got a (Pool) Problem

Michael has a great (large) pool, and it has served him and his family well for over 15 years, but now it’s showing its age. Being Marcite it started out well enough as they usually do. However, being a reactive surface (meaning it reacts to some of the chemicals you must put in your pool, notably acid) it slowly dissolves.

Michael noted that in recent times it was getting harder to keep algae under control. To keep ahead of the growth, he was adding more and more (expensive) algaecide to the pool water. This not only costs money, but it’s also not that good for you in large doses. He started feeling a little unwell after each swim.

Also, the pool surface was getting more stains and becoming quite unattractive to look at.

First off, he is going over the surface to see what issues there may be. From stains, and worn areas, and to drummy (hollow sounding when tapped) Marcite. Mark any drummy areas with a black marker pen – pencil for future reference.

Though Michael was a careful and responsible pool owner (his young grandkids came over a lot in the summer) there was a niggling worry about them and all these chemicals too. So, one recent winter he decided to do something to get his pool back to how it used to be when new.

After a lot of research and talking to local pool shops, contractors, and neighbors Michael finally settled on upgrading the Marcite with a new hard-wearing, easy-clean, and long-lasting, decorative coating. One that will save him hours of cleaning and heaps of dollars with much less chemical treatment. It’s like putting a new skin over the Marcite to provide a colorful finish, a base for murals, one that algae cannot grow on, and is really easy on the cleaning and maintenance side. This is really important, as Michael was in his early 70s and the thought of any more major work on the pool in his advancing age, is not tenable. By the way, Michael is a retired painter so he understands coatings and was seeking only the very best for his pool. Something that his neighbors and friends were interested in enjoying in their aging pools also.

Remove all such drummy areas carefully and do not hit the surface too hard as it will dislodge, stable material on the periphery. Note well-stained Marcite. These areas do not need to be removed but treated with high-strength algicide to kill the roots.

Area of removed Marcite, concrete beneath

An example of a removed area of Marcite showing an underlying concrete surface. Note the firm edges left and no cracked material surrounding the area removed. Meaning it’s all well adhered to the concrete, here.

Repairing Marchite, with a suitable compound

Using a suitable repair compound to re-surface those areas where the Marcite was removed (Michael followed the suggested products listed in the comprehensive Application Notes, on our website – paintnforget.com) The blue areas are the primer to the exposed concrete surfaces, so the repair compound adheres. In this case it’s trowelled flush and fairly smooth. After 24 hours to set, it’s lightly sanded flush to match adjoining areas.

Michael is hard at work on his large pool, applying by roller the first color coat. The surface has been primed with clear penetrating sealer first. Application in warm sunny weather is best.

After 24 hours of cure time, the second color coat can be applied. Allow to fully cure before filing with water.

Michael wanted some murals for the grandkids so here is a local artist sketching out the outlines for Michael to color in. This was undertaken a few days after the last color coat was applied.

Michael completing the murals with the same material as the topcoat for maximum color longevity and durability.

Pool murals are finished and in bright sunlight. The main pool paint color is Mid Blue.

If you have a pool like Michael’s, ( Marcite, Pebble Tec, Plaster or similar, even Fiberglass,) let us know and we can personally work with you to understand your pool needs, your budget, and your future requirements. Then we will guide you on how to achieve a finish that will meet, indeed exceed your requirements. We like to discuss with you one on one to develop just the right answer for you and your pool. One you will enjoy for decades and be proud to share with friends and neighbors. Just go to Contact Button on the website. We will follow up promptly.

Why You Should Invite Dr Langelier to YOUR Pool!

Leave a Comment / LSI, Maintenance, Save money, Uncategorized / By admin

Why you should invite Dr Langelier to YOUR pool!

Pool water will always (try to) find its own water balance. The question is, will this be what you and your pool want or actually need? There can be unsuspecting actions going on as your pool water tries to get itself in balance. Actions that can make your pool uninviting at best and/or pump parts corroding away at worst.

So, let’s dive in and see what’s really going on here. There is a desire, indeed a need to get your pool water into balance and then keep it there. This will ensure your pool (always) looks inviting to dive right in and enjoy. In addition, you need the sanitation level correct, the mineral content correct, (pool water contains minerals no matter where your water comes from), and a few other goodies and often baddies, like phosphates.

So, to really help you and all other pool owners a certain Dr. W Langelier developed a complex formula way back in 1936, for the analytical control of anti-corrosion water treatment. This was aimed at the industrial market then; however, it was simplified in 1965 by Carrier of air conditioning fame and has since become very useful for all swimming pool owners as well.

Briefly, it can now tell with a good degree of confidence, whether your pool water is in balance or not, and if not, explain what you are seeing, going on.

One can have a long and lengthy discussion about the formula and the background however rather than blind you with more technical material than you need, let’s focus on the key factors.

The Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) needs to be kept always in the range of -0.3 to + 0.3 for a well-balanced pool. You can ask your pool shop to calculate this for you every time you get a water test and make sure it along with all the other parameters they test, like pH, Chorine, Ca and TA, are recorded including the date. Then you can see your pool water chemistry trends and take action in advance of developments. This will save you money.

If you do your own tests at home with a test kit, you can enter the data on your smart app and get the results as well. Search for Orenda LSI on your smart app store and download it. (see image above)

The LSI index predicts the calcium carbonate stability in your pool water.

LSI >+ 0.3, then water is supersaturated and tends to precipitate a scale layer inside the pool and filter equipment.
LSI -0.3 to + 0.3 generally in balance with no significant activity.
LSI <-0.3, then water is undersaturated and tends to dissolve solid CaC03 (Calcium Carbonate)
The LSI index is temperature sensitive, and the higher the temperature of the (heated pool) the greater the LSI becomes. So, you need to determine pool water temperature along with, the Calcium Hardness, Total Alkalinity, Total Dissolved Solids, and any Cyanuric acid in your pool water. These factors are determined at your pool shop water test, automatically. If doing home testing you need a test kit that covers these points also, not just a basic test kit.

So, you can see by making only a few changes here (Water temp, pH, TA, Ca) the LSI varies. In red the readings are too low or in orange too high, in green, acceptable.

By tracking the LSI over time and with the other factors also recorded, you can discover your pool’s trends, as the seasons change, or bather load etc. Then know what to do in advance of the LSI getting too low or too high and make adjustments to the chemistry. This will usually save you money as the corrections are less, and thus use fewer chemicals to keep in balance etc.

In the above example take column 3, the green result. So if we see the TA starting to raise we know that the LSI will also increase, all else being the same. Then we can take steps to reduce TA before it gets so high as to cause the LSI to go above +0.3. (This can be affected by adding some acid to your pool) And if you see the TA heading towards 120, then the LSI will be +0.32 already, so its time to add some acid to bring it back, rather than waiting till its at 190 (in examples above) and having to add a lot more acid.

This is why testing your pool on regular basis (weekly summer, monthly winter) is so helpful once the LSI is known. Then you can be Pro-Active.

What does scaling mean? (LSI greater than +0.3) This means that calcium carbonate is deposited (dust, powder) on the pool surfaces, inc fittings, plumbing, and filtration equipment. Naturally, the higher the number the more of this scaling occurs and it can be very noticeable, as a fine white chalky like powder. (see image below)

The pool water may look cloudy – murky as well. If you run your fingers across the surface, you can see the finger lines on the surface, and there may be color pick up even, as the scaling is quite abrasive. The pool water vacuum units may have a powder or color pickup also as they travel across the surfaces. There can be damage and build-up within the pump units and pipes leading to reduced flow and added work for pump motors.

Thus it is very desirable to not let this happen, as once it has taken hold, getting the scale off some surfaces can be quite difficult and the damage may be done already.

What does dissolving (corrosion) mean? (LSI less than -0.3) If your pool is in this state then the pool water will seek out Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) to rebalance it back to 0. So where will it get the CaCo3 from? It will start with any cement surfaces in your pool, inc Marcite, Pebble Tec tile grout, and plasters in general. They will be etched away before your very eyes, making a rough, friable, soft surface, so that algae take hold. Replacement is needed. Oh, I have a fiberglass or liner pool, then you need to look at the surfaces and you may well find a degradation going on. Also, in the plastic pipework too. Meaning shorter life than expected. Water STOPS AT NOTHING to find balance. So don’t think you and your pool are immune from the ravages of a low LSI.

Important: Today if ALL your readings are fine, this does not mean they were fine and in balance yesterday nor tomorrow. They can be out of balance for days or weeks and the damage is done. Now you will pay for it. Hence the need to do regular tests inc LSI and record the results so you can easily see them. Your pool needs to be in LSI Balance year-round for worry-free pool chemistry.

A good supplier of pool water test kits is Taylors. See here https://www.taylortechnologies.com

Suggest the 9-way test kit is the most useful

And make sure whoever does your pool water testing knows their chemistry very well!

Here is a more detailed article from Orenda on LSI, I suggest you check it out.

https://blog.orendatech.com/calcium-misunderstood-chemistry

Now You Understand LSI , Right? – Just Enjoy Your Pool!

The type of pool surface matters a lot

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Some Pool Surfaces Save You Money, Others Don’t, Why?

What is the most attractive, easiest to live with and longest-lasting finish with the best value as well?

To gain the maximum amount of enjoyment, with the least fuss, expense, and maintenance, selecting the right finish or best upgrade, takes a little effort.

For an attractive finish, you want one that provides the color you are seeking, entices you into the pool, and stays the way it was from new.

For one that has the least hassles a finish that’s easy to keep clean (no algae attack or staining) and is not abrasive on feet or elbows.

For the best value it needs to be straightforward to install, very long-lasting, with no acid washing, no resurfacing needed and stays just how it was from the day of installation.

And for the best health aspect, you want one that requires minimal chemical input, does not react with chemicals and so does not become an issue in trying to keep the water balance stable.

Is such a finish out there?
Well In one word, YES!

So, which one is it?

Before we get to that let’s have a quick look and the pros and cons of the common finishes.

Plaster finishes: (Inc Marcite, Pebble type finishes)

Pros:
Very common
Generally good value
Attractive colors
Nonslip
When looked after well can last 10 – 15 years
Can have any shape you want, though at some cost
A concrete shell usually provides stability.

Cons:
It’s hand-finished so it\’s very dependent on the skill of the installer
Can be hard – abrasive on the skin
Is porous and allows algae to take hold
Needs more chemicals to maintain good water health
Stains easily and needs to be “acid washed” every 5 years on average
Slowly is eroded through pool chemicals, acid mostly

Quartz Type Finishes

Pros:
Very attractive finishes are available
Durable
Nonslip
When looked after well can last 7 – 12 years
Can have any shape you want, though at some cost
A concrete shell usually provides stability.
Cons:
It’s hand-finished so it\’s very dependent on the skill of the installer
Can be hard – abrasive on the skin
Is porous and allows algae to take hold
Needs more chemicals to maintain good water health
Stains easily and needs to be “acid washed” every 5 years on average
Slowly is eroded through pool chemicals, acid mostly
Can be expensive to install and operate

Fiberglass Pools

Pros:
Generally good value
Attractive colors and finishes
Nonslip on step treads
Low maintenance
When looked after well can last 20 – 25 years
Smooth, easy-clean factory finish
Easy and quick installation

Cons:
Limited pool sizes and shapes
The surface slowly wears away and resurfacing is needed every 15 -20 years
It May have higher installation costs on some sites

Vinyl Liner

Pros:
Generally good value (above ground)
Attractive colours
Relatively low maintenance
When looked after well can last 10 years
Stain-resistant
Easy to refurbish

Cons:
May need replacement early due to damage
The surface can be affected badly by poor chemistry

Tiled Pools

Pros:
Durable
Attractive colors, patterns, and finishes
Nonslip on step treads
Low maintenance
When looked after well can last 20 – 25 years
Stain-resistant

Cons:
Expensive
Lengthy install process
Grout subject to stains and algae
Hard to upgrade or change
Hard to repair – replace older damaged tiles

Painted type finishes: (Acrylic, Epoxy)

Pros:
Attractive colors available
Easy to apply
Ideal for both new and upgrading older pool surfaces
Generally easy to clean and inert
Suitable over Fiberglass, Plaster, and Quartzon type surfaces
A concrete shell usually provides stability.
Durability low (acrylic 1 – 3yrs) to good (epoxies (3 – 5 yrs)
Can be DIY
Good value for performance
Easy to include artistic effects, murals

Cons:
Both products chalk with UV exposure
Both wear away and need recoating (acrylic 2 – 3 yrs) epoxies 3– 5+ years)

PaintNForget Fluoropolymer Coating

Pros:
Attractive colors available
Ideal for both new and upgrading older pool surfaces
Easy to clean and inert
Easy to include artistic effects, murals
Waterproof
Suitable over Fiberglass, Plaster, and Quartzon type surfaces
Durability excellent, unaffected by UV or pool chemicals
Nonslip on steps
Can be DIY or contractor
Great value for performance
Long-lasting, 10 years plus – over 30 years in marine situations

Cons:
None known

Summary

If you are looking to have an aesthetically pleasing, very long-lasting, easy-clean, low-maintenance finish to your pool, old or new, then PaintNForget is the only answer for you, your pool, and your wallet. That’s the facts.

Pool Leak Detection

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Pool Leak Detection

Do you feel you pool is leaking or even know it may be?

Do you add water when you think you should not be having to do so?

If you have this thought or feeling, there is an easy way to see if your hunch is right or not. Of course, pools loose water to evaporation so you will see this for sure, more so on hot windy, low humidity days.

To check if you pool is losing water and not by evaporation, do the following on a warm to hot sunny, windless, rainless day

Fill the pool to its normal level and make a mark or note exactly where it is, (Smart phone image close up will often do and don’t drop the phone!).
Take a 5 gal or similar size bucket and near fill it,and mark its level also.
Place the said bucket on a top step or somewhere where is about half submerged in the pool water and note the time. (Early morning before the sun gets too high is best)
Late afternoon or early evening, note the difference, if any in the levels of the water in the pool and bucket. If they both drop by say 1/2ins, then no leakage. If the pool drops 1 ins and the bucket ½ ins, the pool is leaking.

So you now know your pool is leaking but from where?

There are a few common suspects no matter the type of pool. At this stage you can call in a pool leak detector company to go over all aspects and see where the pool leak is. Or you can save money at this point and do some detective work yourself, to pinpoint the lucky location.

It depends on your preferred option. Here is a sequence of steps you can take to start with.

Let the pool level drop till it stops. If at or just below the skimmer box, then the leak is there or in the pipework connecting it.

If it drops down further to a point where you have a water entry pipe or light fittings and stops, then the leak is mostly likely at one of those points.

If the water level drops to being almost empty, its more than likely the hydrostatic valve. Of course, if it just stops at some other point, then there will be a crack or hole in the pool itself, that is the culprit.

With letting the water continue to drop below say half full be mindful there is lot of water going someplace and your pool, fiberglass especially, will become unstable and may move, creating additional issues.

Ideally you should not let the water level drop more than 1 – 2 ft and if no obvious issue found or seen, its probably a good time to call in a leak detector.

Be aware that clay soils and some other (reactive) soils also, vary in their stability and load carrying capacity as they get wet (rain, pool leakages or broken waterpipes) and then dry out. It’s quite usual for pool shells (fiberglass more so) to move slightly when this happens. In so doing, on a regular or only once off basis, fracturing the (aged) pipework where it exits the pool shell, creating the leak. It’s often the cause of many pool leaks. A leaking aged hydrostatic value is also common. If so, your pool will need to be emptied to replace it.

Be aware that concrete pools (gunite) are NOT waterproof everywhere or indeed anywhere and so there may be an area of porous concrete that provides a slow leak.

The plastered or mineral surfaces are not waterproof either, only a good quality well installed coating would be water proof. (e.g. PaintnForget).

For fiberglass the gel coat, that decorative protective top layer slowly wears through, and you may see glass fibers. At this point a FG pool is no longer water tight either.

Vinyl liners may develop small splits or holes and so will loose water to the space behind, which may not be waterproof either and so the water leaves the pool “shell”.

In summary many pools leak a little and its not a big issue. However, if you start to be adding water on a 2 – 3 times a week basis, it is time to seek out the problem and then get it fixed.

Adding Water and Chemicals to Your Opening Up Pool

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Adding Water and Chemicals to Your Opening Up Pool

Now is the fun part, getting your pool read to dive in (well if its warm enough of course)

It’s likely that there is insufficient water in your pool to start your system and so you will be adding more. One way to save time is to run the garden hose into the pool before you remove the pool cover. This may save a day or 2 of filling now.
Now you got all the equipment connected or soon will have you don’t want the pool water turn green. So, if the water level is still too low for the equipment to function, just add liquid chlorine to the pool water and then move it about using a telescopic pole and attached brush – broom. It’s not too effective but better than nothing. Don’t overdo the chlorine though. A little and a repeat each day is better.
Water chemistry check is the next step once the pool water is at the correct level. It’s very likely your pool chemistry will be way out at start up so it’s important to bring up to spec quickly.
- Stabilizer: This is known as water conditioner, cyanic acid or stabilizer. It helps prevent the UV burning off the chlorine in your pool. To be effective needs to be in the range of 30 – 50 ppm.
- Total Alkalinity: always check this first and follow the alphabet in correcting aspects of pool water chemistry. Alkalinity first and should be 75 – 180 ppm.
- Calcium Hardness: is required in all pools to prevent the water either finding its own minerals by leaching from the pool surfaces or metallic components in the plumbing system or depositing mineral residues on the same. Ideally it needs to be kept with in the range of 200 – 300 ppm and in saltwater pools nearer the 200 – 220 mark to prevent scaling.
- Chlorine levels: as you know chlorine is the main sanitizer and so its levels need to be maintained within prescribed range to be really effective. 1 ppm of free chlorine (1 – 3 is ideal) and for total chlorine no more than 1 ppm above the free level. If more than 1 ppm you have combined chlorine or chloramines.
- pH: is the relationship between acid and alkali in your pool.Though if often of as being complex, there is only one basic thingyou need to keep in mind. The pH needs to remain close to neutral which is 7, and also close to the pH of your eyes (7.0 – 7.3) to save upsetting your eyes. So, keep it with 7.2 – 7.8 but much better to keep it within 7.3- 7.4, slightly alkali.
- Phosphate levels: This is something you may never have to worry about, as its largely the result of run off from golf courses or places where fertilizer has been used. You may also find if your pool has become the local duck pond also. By keeping the Chlorine levels 1 – 3 ppm you should not have an algae issue, however if it drops away and you have phosphates in your pool, it may start an algae garden. Levels over 500 ppb (parts per billion) then stat a treatment.
- Salt Levels: if your pool as a chlorine generator it means you have salt in your pool and this needs to be monitored for maximum effectiveness. Do test the salt level in the pool after the reopening in the spring and then determine how much slat is needed to bring it back to the required level. Use only pool salt or pure sodium chloride. Note that you want salt with the least amount of impurities in it and the maximum amount of sodium chloride. Impurities can damage the cell and also leave a white film over the pool surface, which is quite a nuisance. It is best to dissolve the salt in a 5 gal bucket (repeat as needed) and then tip into the pool. This saves the potential for discoloration on the pool floor from a large mass of undissolved salt.
- Langelier Saturation Index: Is a very useful unbiased calculation to determine if your pool water is aggressive/corrosive (low LSI < -0.3) balanced ( – 0.3 to + 0.3) or scale forming (high LSI >+0.3). Your pool shop can do this for you when you take in your water samples for testing. Ideally keep a record of the results and see the trends. If you follow these, you can prevent a deterioration in your pool water getting out hand and save money. So, if going from balanced and slowly increasing, you will start to see scale forming. But you can prevent that by adding the right chemicals to prevent it happening. Your pool shop can guide you.

Look After Pool Water Chemistry

Maintenance, Save money / By admin

Good Chemistry Means Great Pools

Pools are very simply, mild chemical baths. Most pools and spas use some form of chlorine for sanitation.

In order to not waste your money on unnecessary (and often dangerous chemicals), you should manage or have managed the pool water chemistry, well. An out-of-balance pool may not only be uncomfortable to swim in (it may be unhealthy even), but it can also result in the shortening of the life of the pool filtration system and pool surfaces themselves.

So close and well-managed pool water chemistry will save you money both in the short and long term.

Chlorine is a strong oxidizing agent and is quite dangerous if mishandled. Hence for pool use its either sold in diluted liquid form (12.5%) tablets or generated via a saltwater chlorinator.

There is a lot of information written about pool water chemistry. Much of it is done by commercial enterprises who are keen to sell you something. There is little unbiased information available for the home pool user.

Pool water can be a very complex mixture of metals, nonmetals, salts, oxides, chemicals, oils, and phosphates etc.

Also, the water you put into your pool (well or town supply) may also contain many salts & metals in small and varying concentrations. These can vary daily (and within your street) and impact quickly the pool water chemistry and how you need to deal with it.

The most important aspects to monitor are pH, Water Balance, Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) and Chlorine (Bacteria) ,

In one sense having a low maintenance pool is the most delightful experience and some owners achieve this year in year out. Others struggle to get theirs to run well. Why?

The best place to get good advice is your pool shop, however, not all are run by knowledgeable persons who can discuss your pool issues and take the time to work out what’s going on. Many shops run a simple computer test for pH, Chlorine, TA (Total Alkalinity), and CH (Calcium Hardness) and sell you some chemicals to add to your pool, in the expectation all will be well. Yet a few weeks later you are back seeking a solution to an issue. Why? Could the TDS or LSI be getting too high, causing additional problems?

Saltwater Pools

These are now quite common but are not “NO” maintenance. They do require care and attention.

Firstly, in an average size pool, some 800lbs of pool-grade salt is used. And it’s topped up from time to time. If salt is from seawater, so it has the same composition as seawater, including sodium chloride (NaCl) along with other minerals like Calcium, Magnesium, and salts of these, plus biological items. There are many trace minerals and some metals too, along with fine sand. Not all are soluble and can drop out as fine white powder over time when the water temperature changes. Filtration systems cannot remove all. There is also salt from mechanical evaporation with different compositions and potential issues. Lastly mined salt is considered the purest.

Also, the Chlorinator itself may assist in creating insoluble materials such as calcium and alkali precipitate and resultant scale in the pool itself.

Chlorine pools

In pools with liquid or granular chlorine, Sodium Hypochlorite is the most common sanitizer used. Calcium Hypochlorite (increases Calcium load) and Lithium Hypochlorite (higher cost, lower effectiveness) less so.

However, even Sodium Hypochlorite leaves a residue that’s about 85% salt, NaCl. This is reactive and may combine with other minerals and salts in the pool (water supply, rainwater flowing across cement) to form insoluble salts too, much like those seen in Saltwater pools.

Fibreglass, Vinyl, Painted Pools

Pools with non-mineral surfaces can suffer from a low Calcium level. If there is no Calcium in the pool lining, (non-mineral) then with rainwater entering the pool, (that’s calcium-free) plus any limited Calcium in the pool is being filtered out, a deficiency exists. This upsets the water balance, leading to a loss of “buoyancy” to hold dissolved solids in suspension. Within a matter of minutes, the dissolved solids drop out as a white film over the pool surfaces.

What to do if your pool shows these signs?

Discuss with your pool shop. We can also provide more information on the white film and how to get rid of it.

Usually, a flocculating agent will do the job

Note there are two Types: Aluminium Sulphate and Synthetic Polymer and either one may work. You may need to try both. If not successful then it may be that TDS is too high and the pool needs to be partially emptied to remove water and some of the TDS and replaced with clean, water. Only further testing will confirm this last approach as being needed.

In a nutshell, there are remedies to overcome these issues and, in some cases, they are straightforward. In others, more detective work and some trial and error is needed to get your pool back to being in tip-top condition. Do not let your pool just sit and get worse as the longer it is left the more difficult it can be to fix.

The BEST Measure of Pool Water Balance and being correct is the Langelier Saturation Index, (LSI).

It should always be in the range of +0.3 to – 0.3. This means the water is balanced.

If higher than + 0.3 the pool is in the scale-forming mode, so it deposits minerals on the surfaces, pipes etc. You may well start seeing a white dusty film forming on the pool surface below the waterline (and a hard scale above the waterline). This can be very abrasive and “sand” the coating off, blue hands feet etc.

If the LSI is less than -0.3, then the pool water is corrosive. This means the pool water will be dissolving any mineral surfaces or eating away at any metal fittings connected to your pool, steps, pumps valves etc.

As Stabilizer Increases	LSI Decreases
As Total Dissolved Solids Increase	LSI Decreases
As Temperature Increases	LSI Increases
As Total Alkalinity Increases	LSI Increases
As pH Increases	LSI Increases
As Calcium Hardness Increases	LSI Increases

How Changes In Your Pool Chemistry Impacts On LSI

The LSI is a VERY useful and easy way to see if your pool water is in balance or not.

Your pool shop can calculate this from the pool water tests they do. Ask them to show you and discuss.

For maximum life of the pool finish and equipment, the pool water quality should be maintained continuously in accord with accepted pool water management practices and the following criteria;

The recommended ranges for each variable are.

pH	7.2 – 7.6	Temp	40 – 95 F
Total Alkalinity (TA)	80 (min)–180(max) ppm	Chlorine Levels	1 – 3 ppm
Calcium Hardness (CA)	250–350ppm	Watch CA carefully

The Key Facts To Manage Pool Water Balance

Pool regularly cleaned, brushed (at least each 2 weeks in summer and monthly in winter).
Check water balance at least twice weekly in summer and monthly in winter.
Pool chemicals to be correctly mixed and not dumped into pool,
Pool remains full of water (unless winterized)
If using a Cu/Ag system monitor and keep ion concentration low to prevent staining.

If having your pool professionally maintained, then make sure they set the testing equipment to the correct surface type of your pool. Otherwise, incorrect chemical dosage may result, in shortening the life of the current surface.

Also, Total Alkalinity should be carefully maintained to prevent a powdery surface from developing with attendant “pick up” on hands and feet and a shorter life.

Calculate Your Pool\’s LSI Here